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Lineup Notes·2026 · 02

Three weeks at El Tunco · Field notes from the lineup

A mid-tier intermediate surfer's honest log.

I came to El Tunco for one week and stayed three. This is the field log I kept, edited only for clarity.

Week one

Arrived on a Tuesday afternoon. The swell was small — maybe chest high on the best sets — but the water was warm and the lineup was friendly. Rented an 8'0" from Surf-e on the recommendation of the guy at the desk who watched me walk in and, without asking, correctly identified me as someone who thinks they're better than they are.

He was right. The 8-footer humbled me in the best way. I caught more waves in that first session than I had in a month back home on my 6'2".

The break at El Tunco is a beach break with a couple of defined peaks. The left peak near the rocks is more consistent and holds shape a bit longer. The right side is faster and closes out more often but is less crowded. I spent most of my time on the left.

Water temperature: approximately 28°C. No wetsuit. This alone is worth the trip.

Week two

Borrowed a 6'6" on the fourth day of the second week when the swell picked up. It was humbling in a different direction — I was overgunned in the sense that the board surfed better than I did, and I felt like I was constantly behind the wave, chasing rather than being.

Switched back to the 8' by Thursday. I am not too proud.

The thing about El Tunco that no swell forecast captures is the light. Golden-hour sessions here are genuinely different. The angle of the sun coming off the Pacific turns every wave face copper, and you are surfing inside something that looks like a painting. I took almost no photos because I was too busy surfing, which is the correct choice.

Week three

By week three I had a routine. In the water by 06:15, out by 09:00, breakfast at the place on the corner, nap, back in for a late afternoon session before the wind came up. The locals started nodding at me, which felt like the highest honor.

My pop-up got better. Not dramatically — there is no dramatic improvement, only slow accumulation — but my back foot was landing more consistently over the fins, and I was trimming down the line rather than just surviving the takeoff.

I left on a Sunday when the forecast showed a week of small, messy swell. The timing felt right. The water was still warm when I paddled in for the last time.

I'll be back.